Skincareregimen for acneic skin
-
Acne is triggered by hormonal changes, more specifically an increase in testosterone levels. These changes are common during puberty, use of contraceptives, stress, pre-menopause). First the testosterone is going to stimulate the sebaceous gland resulting in excess oil in your pores. Second if you have the Acne gene, the cells lining the inside of your pores multiply and shed 4 times faster than normal.
Excess oils (sebum) and dead cells get stuck under the skin surface resulting in white bump called a COMEDONE.
In the best case scenario the debris are pushed to the surface, a BLACKHEAD occurs because the oils of the pore opening oxidize with air not because the skin is dirty.
If the COMEDONE gets stuck under the skin it turns into a lovely pimple; eventually the acne bacteria that thrives in an oxygen free & oil rich environment infects the pimple into a PUSTULE and triggers a huge inflammatory response resulting in a painful CYST, acne scaring and pigmentation.
Acne in your 30’s is often due to stress, stress triggers a response from your adrenals that in turn release testosterone. Testosterone stimulates the production of oils (sebum) in the pore.
You cannot wash acne away in fact over washing traps oils under the skin and messes the skin pH, creating a brewing broth for the acne bacteria.
The solution is to 1- keep the skin moist & supple to avoid clogged pores, 2- create a low pH and oxygen rich environment to fight bacterial infection, 3- use Vitamin A derivative to empty the pore!- Cleanse in the evening then use a toner to lower the pH; only tone in the morning.
- Avoid cleansers that make your skin feel "squeaky clean".
- Your moisturizer should contain anti-inflammatory ingredients to prevent pigmentation and scars.
- Use the appropriate night serum to force the COMEDONE out to the surface
- Spot treat: if your pimple is red hard and painful but not infected use Bioderma Cicabio drying lotion, if it is infected use Hexomedine transcutanee anti bacterial agent
First Grade of Acne: predominantly white heads and black heads. Occasional inflammatory lesions
You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
Each week there should be fewer lesions. At the point you clear up, stay on the regimen for a month then reverse the regimen.
Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthlyDry or sensitive
Combination or oily
AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality salicylic serum + face Reality hydrabalance PM Face reality Ultra gentle gel cleanser + tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality 5% mandelic serum + face Reality Hydrabalance Back and chest acne
AM or PM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah apply
You want to produce extensive peeling over a long period of time in order to open up all the white heads.
Remember this is the toughest grade, you will need to really push up your treatment and be patient.
Spa treatments: Mandelic peels every other week until the skin is ready for a Facial with extractions, then alternate peels and facials.Dry or sensitive
Combination or oily
Third Grade of Acne: most typical. Mix of white heads & black heads 7-10 papules at one timeYou want to gradually induce peeling and keep on peeling without irritating your skin.
You should be clearing within 4 to 8 weeks. When you reach a stage where your skin is dry and gently peeling keep that regimen.
If the number of papules is not dropping you need the addition of a prescription.Dry or sensitive
Combination or oily
Back and chest
AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah
Apply Face reality 10% Acne medYou want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
You need to stop the infection, you may need a topical antibiotic prescription.
It is very important to control inflammation as it results in pigmentation and scarring, we recommend Pevonia Propolis Concentrate.
Benzoyl Peroxide Gel has a bleaching action so use white linens and towels.Dry or sensitive
Combination or oily
Ethnic skin
Benzoyl peroxyde is not recommended for your skin type, so you will need a topical antibiotic prescription
Back and chest
AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah
10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel daily for two weeks, then twice a day