French Esthetician Advice & Home Regimen

Back to skin types
Please scroll down to find your skin type and follow the same regimen I give to my spa clients. Your esthetician, Hélène.
Acne skin

Acne is triggered by hormonal changes, more specifically an increase in testosterone levels. These changes are common during puberty, use of contraceptives, stress, pre-menopause). First the testosterone is going to stimulate the sebaceous gland resulting in excess oil in your pores. Second if you have the Acne gene, the cells lining the inside of your pores multiply and shed 4 times faster than normal.

Excess oils (sebum) and dead cells get stuck under the skin surface resulting in white bump called a COMEDONE.

In the best case scenario the debris are pushed to the surface, a BLACKHEAD occurs because the oils of the pore opening oxidize with air not because the skin is dirty.

If the COMEDONE gets stuck under the skin it turns into a lovely pimple; eventually the acne bacteria that thrives in an oxygen free & oil rich environment infects the pimple into a PUSTULE and triggers a huge inflammatory response resulting in a painful CYST, acne scaring and pigmentation.

Acne in your 30’s is often due to stress, stress triggers a response from your adrenals that in turn release testosterone. Testosterone stimulates the production of oils (sebum) in the pore.

You cannot wash acne away in fact over washing traps oils under the skin and messes the skin pH, creating a brewing broth for the acne bacteria.

The solution is to 1- keep the skin moist & supple to avoid clogged pores, 2- create a low pH and oxygen rich environment to fight bacterial infection, 3- use Vitamin A derivative to empty the pore!
  • Cleanse in the evening then use a toner to lower the pH; only tone in the morning.
  • Avoid cleansers that make your skin feel "squeaky clean".
  • Your moisturizer should contain anti-inflammatory ingredients to prevent pigmentation and scars.
  • Use the appropriate night serum to force the COMEDONE out to the surface
    • Spot treat: if your pimple is red hard and painful but not infected use Bioderma Cicabio drying lotion, if it is infected use Hexomedine transcutanee anti bacterial agent

    First Grade of Acne: predominantly white heads and black heads. Occasional inflammatory lesions

    You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
    Each week there should be fewer lesions. At the point you clear up, stay on the regimen for a month then reverse the regimen.
    Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Bioderma Sebium Hydra+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water + VivantDerma-A gel every other day for a week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily if needed

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Bioderma Sebium Global+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water + Exfol-A every other day for a week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily if needed

    Ethnic skin

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Bioderma Sebium Hydra+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water + Vivant Mandelic serum every other day for a week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily if needed

    Back and chest

    AM or PM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Pevonia Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser.
    Apply Exfol-A daily
    Second Grade of Acne: maturation arrest. Clear from a distance but bumpy with a lot of white heads

    You want to produce extensive peeling over a long period of time in order to open up all the white heads.
    Remember this is the toughest grade, you will need to really push up your treatment and be patient.
    Spa treatments: Mandelic peels every other week until the skin is ready for a Facial with extractions, then alternate peels and facials.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+ Pevonia Sensitive Skin Moisturizer+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Sensitive Skin Cleansing Milk +Mandelic Acid Toner + VivantDerma-A gel every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to Exfol-A and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Combination or oily

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+Pevonia Combination skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Combination skin cleansing milkMandelic Acid Toner + Exfol-A  every other day for a week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to Exfol-A FORTE and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Ethnic skin

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+ Image Vital C repair cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day  (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Image Ormedic Cleanser + Mandelic Acid Toner + 8% Mandelic serum every day for a week then daily for 3 weeks then twice daily if needed
    Switch to 15% Mandelic serum and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Back and chest

    AM or PM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Pevonia Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser.
    Apply Exfol-A daily for two weeks, then twice a day
    Third Grade of Acne: most typical. Mix of white heads & black heads 7-10 papules at one time

    You want to gradually induce peeling and keep on peeling without irritating your skin.
    You should be clearing within 4 to 8 weeks. When you reach a stage where your skin is dry and gently peeling keep that regimen.
    If the number of papules is not dropping you need the addition of a prescription.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+ Pevonia Sensitive Skin Moisturizer+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Sensitive Skin Cleansing Milk +Mandelic Acid Toner + Exfol-A gel every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to Exfol-A Forte and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Combination or oily

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+ Bioderma Sebium Global+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing GelMandelic Acid Toner + Exfol-A gel every other day for 3 days, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Move up to 10% BP gel or Exfol-A Forte and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Ethnic skin

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+ Bioderma Sebium Global+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day(BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing Gel + Mandelic Acid Toner + 8% Mandelic serum every other day for 3 days, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to 15% Mandelic serum and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Back and chest

    AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Pevonia Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser.
    Apply Exfol-A FORTE daily for two weeks, then twice a day
    Fourth Grade of Acne: cystic. Like III with nodules and painful cysts

    You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
    You need to stop the infection, you may need a topical antibiotic prescription.
    It is very important to control inflammation as it results in pigmentation and scarring, we recommend Pevonia Propolis Concentrate.
    Benzoyl Peroxide Gel has a bleaching action so use white linens and towels.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner + Pevonia Propolis Concentrate + Pevonia Sensitive Skin Moisturizer+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Sensitive Skin Cleansing Milk +Mandelic Acid Toner + 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Ge every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to Exfol-A and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Combination or oily

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner + Pevonia Propolis Concentrate + Bioderma Sebium Global+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing Gel + Mandelic Acid toner + 10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel every other day for 3 days, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to Exfol-A Forte and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Ethnic skin

    Benzoyl peroxyde is not recommended for your skin type, so you will need a topical antibiotic prescription

    AM Mandelic Acid Toner+ Bioderma Sebium Global+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing Gel + Mandelic Acid Toner + 8% Mandelic serum every other day for 3 days, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks
    Switch to 15% Mandelic serum and start every other day for a week, then daily for 2 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

    Back and chest

    AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Pevonia Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser.
    10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel daily for two weeks, then twice a day
    Sensitive skin

    Your skin is very fine and therefore permeable to toxins. When exposed, your skin reacts with an inflammatory response of redness, heat & itching.

    The solution is to avoid toxins that irritates your skin, and use products that create a shield from outside aggressors!

      • Cleanse in the evening, just use toner in the morning.
      • Avoid water it contains chlorine & harsh minerals: use a cleansing water or toner on a cotton.
      • Your moisturizer should contain barrier ingredients such as beeswax or propolis.
      • Use chemical free sunscreens.

    OILY SENSITIVE SKIN:

     AM Bioderma sebium Cleansing water + Bioderma Crealine Light cream+ Bioderma Photoderm LEB SPF 30 3-4 times per day
    PM

    Bioderma sebium Cleansing water + Bioderma Crealine Light cream

    DRY SENSITIVE SKIN:

     AM No cleansing + Bioderma Crealine Rich cream+ Bioderma Photoderm LEB SPF 30 3-4 times per day
    PM

    Bioderma Crealine H2O TS cleansing water + Bioderma Crealine Rich cream

    ULTRA SENSITIVE SKIN:

     AM Pevonia Sensitive skin toner + Propolis serum + Pevonia Sensitive skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Sensitive skin cleansing milk + Pevonia Sensitive toner.+ Pevonia Sensitive skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)


    SENSITIVE SKIN DEHYDRATED SKIN:

    AM  Bioderma Hydra Cleansing water +Bioderma Hydra rich cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Hydra Cleansing water + Bioderma Hydra rich cream cream

     

    Rosacea skin

    Rosacea is a chronic inflammation, to handle the inflammation the skin extend capillaries inducing diffuse redness and broken capillaries. The inflammation can be so bad it induces skin cells damage that looks like a flaky patch or like a pimple.

    The solution is to "water proof" your skin and use products that will neutralize the inflammatory pathway

    ROSACEA SKIN WITH SQUAMES (dry flaky areas) OR INFLAMMED RED PIMPLES:

     

    AM No cleansing + Bioderma Crealine DS cream + Photoderm LEB SPF 30 3-4 times per day
     PM Bioderma Crealine H2O cleansing water TS + Bioderma crealine DS cream + Apply Boiderma cicabio drying lotion on red bumps. (This will turn white)

    ROSACEA SKIN WITH DIFFUSE REDNESS OR BROKEN CAPILLARIES :

    AM  No cleansing + Bioderma Crealine AR moisturizer or Crealine AR BB cream + Photoderm LEB SPF 30 3-4 times per day
    PM  Bioderma Crealine H2O cleansing water AR + P.O 12 cream

    MATURE ROSACEA SKIN:

    AM Wipe your face Pevonia RS2 toner + Soothing ampule +Pevonia RS2 cream + Mineral Suncreen 3-4 times per day ( BRUSH-ON_BLOCK)
     PM Pevonia RS2 cleansing milk + Pevonia RS2 toner + RS2 skin cream
    Combination to oily skin
    Oil producing glands are predominant on your forehead, nose and chin. When the oils come in contact with air, they oxidize to become blackheads. If the skin is either dehydrated or poorly exfoliated, the oils get stuck under the skin, bacteria invades, and you get a pimple.

    Oily skin is hereditary and hormone dependent. It cannot be changed, but can definitively be controlled.

    The solution is to avoid over washing. Your skin always seeks balance: the more you remove oils, the more it will produce!

    • Cleanse in the evening, use a cleansing water in the morning.
    • Avoid cleansers that strip the skin.
    • Your moisturizer should contain hydrating ingredients such as Aloe Vera or hyaluronic acid.
    • Use non clogging chemical free sunscreens

    COMBINATION SKIN:

     AM No cleansing just wipe face with Pevonia Combination skin toner +Pevonia Combination skin cream+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Combination skin cleansing milk + Pevonia Combination skin toner+ Pevonia Combination skin cream

    DEHYDRATED COMBINATION SKIN:

     AM No cleansing just wipe face with Bioderma Hydra toner + Bioderma Hydra light cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Hydra Cleansing milk + Bioderma Hydra light cream.

    OILY SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Bioderma Sebium cleansing water+ Bioderma sebium anti shine fluid + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
     PM Bioderma Sebium cleansing gel+ Bioderma sebium anti shine fluid

    DEHYDRATED OILY SKIN:

    AM No cleansing just wipe face with Bioderma Hydra toner + Bioderma sebium anti shine fluid+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Bioderma Sebium cleansing gel+Bioderma Hydra light cream 
     

    SENSITIVE OILY SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Bioderma Sebium cleansing water + Bioderma sebium anti shine fluid + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
     PM Pevonia sensitive skin cleansing milk+ Pevonia Propolis concentrate

     

    Dry skin

    Dry skin can be hereditary but often comes with weather changes, over washing, or simply age!

    Sensations of dry skin are due to two factors:

    Your skin cells do not produce enough oil, like a brick wall with out mortar, the cells start flaking and the skin feels rough. You also lack sebum (the oils that coat the surface). Without this waterproof layer, the skin's water evaporates.

    The solution is to maintain water in the skin by preventing its evaporation!

    • Cleanse in the evening, just use toner in the morning.
    • Avoid sudsy cleansers that strip oils from your skin.
    • Your moisturizer should contain nourishing oils and slow releasing water ingredients such as Hyaluronic acid or NMF (natural moisturizing factors).
    • Use talc-free makeup

    20-30 DRY SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Bioderma Hydrabio toner, follow with Bioderma hydra rich cream or embryolisse  +Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
     PM Bioderma hydrabio cleansing milk+ Bioderma hydrabio toner + Ialuset cream

     

    30+ DRY SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Pevonia Dry skin toner + Pevonia Dry skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
     PM

    Pevonia dry skin cleansing milk + Pevonia Dry skin toner+ Pevonia vitaminic concentrate

    Aging skin

    As we age the skin cell turnover slows down inducing dull looking skin.

    We have fewer fibers of collagen and elastin, they are responsible for firmness and elasticity of the skin and as they get damaged they leave behind a dent, we call a wrinkle!

    FIRST SIGNS OF AGING:

    AM Nuxe gentle toning lotion + Nuxe Prodigieuse day cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Nuxe comforting cleansing milk + Nuxe toning lotion +Nuxe Prodigieuse night cream

     

    MATURE DRY | 40's SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Pevonia hydrating toner +collagen ampule + Pevonia Collagen skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia hydrating cleansing milk + Pevonia hydrating toner + Pevonia Retinol cream or A313 retinol cream

    MATURE COMBINATION | 40's SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Pevonia hydrating toner + Pevonia Elastin skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia hydrating cleansing milk + Pevonia hydrating toner + Pevonia Retinol cream or A313 retinol cream

     

    MATURE OILY | 40's SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Pevonia hydrating toner +dna ampule + Pevonia DNA skin cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia hydrating cleansing milk + Pevonia hydrating toner + Pevonia Retinol cream or A313 retinol cream

     

    LACK OF FIRMNESS | 50's SKIN:

    AM Wipe face with Pevonia hydrating toner + either Pevonia DNA, COLLAGEN, or ELASTIN cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
    PM Pevonia Stem cell cleanser + Pevonia stem cell serum + Pevonia stem cell cream