French Esthetician Advice & Home Regimen

Acne is triggered by hormonal changes, more specifically an increase in testosterone levels. These changes are common during puberty, use of contraceptives, stress, pre-menopause). First the testosterone is going to stimulate the sebaceous gland resulting in excess oil in your pores. Second if you have the Acne gene, the cells lining the inside of your pores multiply and shed 4 times faster than normal.

Excess oils (sebum) and dead cells get stuck under the skin surface resulting in white bump called a COMEDONE.

In the best case scenario the debris are pushed to the surface, a BLACKHEAD occurs because the oils of the pore opening oxidize with air not because the skin is dirty.

If the COMEDONE gets stuck under the skin it turns into a lovely pimple; eventually the acne bacteria that thrives in an oxygen free & oil rich environment infects the pimple into a PUSTULE and triggers a huge inflammatory response resulting in a painful CYST, acne scaring and pigmentation.

Acne in your 30’s is often due to stress, stress triggers a response from your adrenals that in turn release testosterone. Testosterone stimulates the production of oils (sebum) in the pore.

You cannot wash acne away in fact over washing traps oils under the skin and messes the skin pH, creating a brewing broth for the acne bacteria.

• Cleanse in the evening then use a toner to lower the pH; only tone in the morning.
• Avoid cleansers that make your skin feel "squeaky clean".
• Your moisturizer should contain anti-inflammatory ingredients to prevent pigmentation and scars.
• Use the appropriate night serum to force the COMEDONE out to the surface
• Spot treat: if your pimple is red hard and painful but not infected use Bioderma Cicabio drying lotion, if it is infected use Hexomedine transcutanee anti bacterial agent

First Grade of Acne: predominantly white heads and black heads. Occasional inflammatory lesions

You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
Each week there should be fewer lesions. At the point you clear up, stay on the regimen for a month then reverse the regimen.
Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly

Dry or sensitive

Combination or oily

Ethnic skin

Back and chest

You want to produce extensive peeling over a long period of time in order to open up all the white heads.
Remember this is the toughest grade, you will need to really push up your treatment and be patient.
Spa treatments: Mandelic peels every other week until the skin is ready for a Facial with extractions, then alternate peels and facials.

Dry or sensitive

Combination or oily

Ethnic skin

Back and chest

You want to gradually induce peeling and keep on peeling without irritating your skin.
You should be clearing within 4 to 8 weeks. When you reach a stage where your skin is dry and gently peeling keep that regimen.
If the number of papules is not dropping you need the addition of a prescription.

Dry or sensitive

Combination or oily

Ethnic skin

Back and chest

You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
You need to stop the infection, you may need a topical antibiotic prescription.
It is very important to control inflammation as it results in pigmentation and scarring, we recommend Pevonia Propolis Concentrate.
Benzoyl Peroxide Gel has a bleaching action so use white linens and towels.

Dry or sensitive

Combination or oily

Ethnic skin

Benzoyl peroxyde is not recommended for your skin type, so you will need a topical antibiotic prescription

Back and chest

Your skin is very fine and therefore permeable to toxins. When exposed, your skin reacts with an inflammatory response of redness, heat & itching.

The solution is to avoid toxins that irritates your skin, and use products that create a shield from outside aggressors!

• Cleanse in the evening, just use toner in the morning.
• Avoid water it contains chlorine & harsh minerals: use a cleansing water or toner on a cotton.
• Your moisturizer should contain barrier ingredients such as beeswax or propolis.
• Use chemical free sunscreens.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammation, to handle the inflammation the skin extend capillaries inducing diffuse redness and broken capillaries. The inflammation can be so bad it induces skin cells damage that looks like a flaky patch or like a pimple.

The solution is to "water proof" your skin and use products that will neutralize the inflammatory pathway

ROSACEA SKIN WITH SQUAMES (dry flaky areas) OR INFLAMMED RED PIMPLES:

ROSACEA SKIN WITH DIFFUSE REDNESS OR BROKEN CAPILLARIES :

MATURE ROSACEA SKIN:

Oily skin is hereditary and hormone dependent. It cannot be changed, but can definitively be controlled.

The solution is to avoid over washing. Your skin always seeks balance: the more you remove oils, the more it will produce!

COMBINATION SKIN:

DEHYDRATED COMBINATION SKIN:

OILY SKIN:

DEHYDRATED OILY SKIN:

SENSITIVE OILY SKIN:

Dry skin can be hereditary but often comes with weather changes, over washing, or simply age!

Sensations of dry skin are due to two factors:

Your skin cells do not produce enough oil, like a brick wall with out mortar, the cells start flaking and the skin feels rough. You also lack sebum (the oils that coat the surface). Without this waterproof layer, the skin's water evaporates.

The solution is to maintain water in the skin by preventing its evaporation!

• Cleanse in the evening, just use toner in the morning.
• Avoid sudsy cleansers that strip oils from your skin.
• Your moisturizer should contain nourishing oils and slow releasing water ingredients such as Hyaluronic acid or NMF (natural moisturizing factors).
• Use talc-free makeup

20-30 DRY SKIN:

30+ DRY SKIN:

As we age the skin cell turnover slows down inducing dull looking skin.

We have fewer fibers of collagen and elastin, they are responsible for firmness and elasticity of the skin and as they get damaged they leave behind a dent, we call a wrinkle!

FIRST SIGNS OF AGING:

MATURE DRY | 40's SKIN:

MATURE COMBINATION | 40's SKIN:

MATURE OILY | 40's SKIN:

LACK OF FIRMNESS | 50's SKIN: