Skincareregimen for acneic skin



Acne is triggered by hormonal changes, more specifically an increase in testosterone levels. These changes are common during puberty, use of contraceptives, stress, pre-menopause). First the testosterone is going to stimulate the sebaceous gland resulting in excess oil in your pores. Second if you have the Acne gene, the cells lining the inside of your pores multiply and shed 4 times faster than normal.

Excess oils (sebum) and dead cells get stuck under the skin surface resulting in white bump called a COMEDONE.

In the best case scenario the debris are pushed to the surface, a BLACKHEAD occurs because the oils of the pore opening oxidize with air not because the skin is dirty.

If the COMEDONE gets stuck under the skin it turns into a lovely pimple; eventually the acne bacteria that thrives in an oxygen free & oil rich environment infects the pimple into a PUSTULE and triggers a huge inflammatory response resulting in a painful CYST, acne scaring and pigmentation.

Acne in your 30’s is often due to stress, stress triggers a response from your adrenals that in turn release testosterone. Testosterone stimulates the production of oils (sebum) in the pore.

You cannot wash acne away in fact over washing traps oils under the skin and messes the skin pH, creating a brewing broth for the acne bacteria.

The solution is to 1- keep the skin moist & supple to avoid clogged pores, 2- create a low pH and oxygen rich environment to fight bacterial infection, 3- use Vitamin A derivative to empty the pore!
  • Cleanse in the evening then use a toner to lower the pH; only tone in the morning.
  • Avoid cleansers that make your skin feel "squeaky clean".
  • Your moisturizer should contain anti-inflammatory ingredients to prevent pigmentation and scars.
  • Use the appropriate night serum to force the COMEDONE out to the surface
    • Spot treat: if your pimple is red hard and painful but not infected use Bioderma Cicabio drying lotion, if it is infected use Hexomedine transcutanee anti bacterial agent

    First Grade of Acne: predominantly white heads and black heads. Occasional inflammatory lesions

    You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
    Each week there should be fewer lesions. At the point you clear up, stay on the regimen for a month then reverse the regimen.
    Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma Sensibio Cleansing water+Secret de Beaute Propolis serum+ Face reality clearderma cream
    PM Face reality creamy cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality 5% mandelic serum + Face Reality Clearderma cream

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality salicylic serum + face Reality hydrabalance
    PM Face reality Ultra gentle gel cleanser + tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality 5% mandelic serum + face Reality Hydrabalance

     

    Back and chest acne

    AM or PM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah apply 
    Second Grade of Acne: maturation arrest. Clear from a distance but bumpy with a lot of white heads

    You want to produce extensive peeling over a long period of time in order to open up all the white heads.
    Remember this is the toughest grade, you will need to really push up your treatment and be patient.
    Spa treatments: Mandelic peels every other week until the skin is ready for a Facial with extractions, then alternate peels and facials.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma sensibio Cleansing water+ Secret de Beaute Propolis serum+ Face reality Clearderma cream
    PM Face reality creamy cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Retinal B3 serum + Face Reality Clearderma cream

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality salicylic serum + face Reality hydrabalance
    PM Face reality creamy cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Retinal B3 serum + Face Reality Clearderma cream
    Third Grade of Acne: most typical. Mix of white heads & black heads 7-10 papules at one time

    You want to gradually induce peeling and keep on peeling without irritating your skin.
    You should be clearing within 4 to 8 weeks. When you reach a stage where your skin is dry and gently peeling keep that regimen.
    If the number of papules is not dropping you need the addition of a prescription.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma sensibio Cleansing water+ Secret de Beaute Propolis serum+ Face reality Clearderma cream
    PM Face reality creamy cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Acne med 2.5 % per schedule from your esthetician + Face Reality Hydrabalance

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality mandelic serum + face Reality hydrabalance
    PM Face reality gel cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Acne med 5 % per schedule from your esthetician + Face Reality Hydrabalance

     

    Back and chest

    AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah 
    Apply Face reality 10% Acne med
    Fourth Grade of Acne: cystic. Like III with nodules and painful cysts

    You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
    You need to stop the infection, you may need a topical antibiotic prescription.
    It is very important to control inflammation as it results in pigmentation and scarring, we recommend Pevonia Propolis Concentrate.
    Benzoyl Peroxide Gel has a bleaching action so use white linens and towels.

    Dry or sensitive

    AM Bioderma sensibio Cleansing water+ Secret de Beaute Propolis serum+ Face reality Clearderma cream
    PM Face reality creamy cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Acne med 5 % per schedule from your esthetician + Face Reality Hydrabalance

    Combination or oily

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality 8% mandelic serum + face Reality hydrabalance
    PM Face reality gel cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Acne med 5 % per schedule from your esthetician + Face Reality Hydrabalance

    Ethnic skin

    Benzoyl peroxyde is not recommended for your skin type, so you will need a topical antibiotic prescription

    AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality 8% mandelic serum + face Reality hydrabalance
    PM Face reality gel cleanser, tone with Face Reality Calming toner, apply Face reality Mandelic serum 15 % per schedule from your esthetician + Face Reality Hydrabalance

    Back and chest

    AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah 
    10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel daily for two weeks, then twice a day