Skincare regimen for acne

Acne is triggered by hormonal changes, more specifically an increase in testosterone levels. These changes are common during puberty, use of contraceptives, stress, pre-menopause). First the testosterone is going to stimulate the sebaceous gland resulting in excess oil in your pores. Second if you have the Acne gene, the cells lining the inside of your pores multiply and shed 4 times faster than normal.

Excess oils (sebum) and dead cells get stuck under the skin surface resulting in white bump called a COMEDONE.

In the best case scenario the debris are pushed to the surface, a BLACKHEAD occurs because the oils of the pore opening oxidize with air not because the skin is dirty.

If the COMEDONE gets stuck under the skin it turns into a lovely pimple; eventually the acne bacteria that thrives in an oxygen free & oil rich environment infects the pimple into a PUSTULE and triggers a huge inflammatory response resulting in a painful CYST, acne scaring and pigmentation.

Acne in your 30’s is often due to stress, stress triggers a response from your adrenals that in turn release testosterone. Testosterone stimulates the production of oils (sebum) in the pore.

Breakouts before your periods is due to a pic in progesterone hormone, this is also why breakouts can be a side effect of estrogens pills.

You cannot wash acne away in fact over washing traps oils under the skin and messes the skin pH, creating a brewing broth for the acne bacteria.

The solution is to

1- keep the skin moist & supple to avoid clogged pores

2- create a low pH and oxygen rich environment to fight bacterial infection

3- use Vitamin A derivative, benzoyl peroxide or mandelic acid to empty the pore!

First Grade of Acne: predominantly white heads and black heads. Occasional inflammatory lesions

You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating or drying your skin. (you will receive an application chart with your products, every other week you move up in intensity)
 Each week there should be fewer lesions. At the point you clear up, stay on the regimen for 6 months then reverse the regimen.
Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly. To
treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.

Dry or sensitive

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face Reality Mandelic serum 5% + Face Reality clearderma cream or + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM  Face Reality gentle cleanser + Face reality calming toner + Acne med 2.5% + Face reality Hydrabalance gel (see chart for Acne med application)

Combination or oily

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face Reality Mandelic serum 5% + Face Reality hydrabalance or + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Face Reality gentle cleanser + Face reality calming toner + Acne med 2.5% + Face reality Hydrabalance gel (see chart for Acne med application)

 Back and chest

AM or PM

Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face reality Mandelic cleanser
Apply Acne med 11% at night

If you have pigmentation apply Mandelic serum 11% in the morning

Second Grade of Acne: maturation arrest. Clear from a distance but bumpy with a lot of white heads

You want to produce extensive peeling over a long period of time in order to open up all the white heads.
Remember this is the toughest grade, you will need to really push up your treatment and be patient.
Spa treatments: Mandelic peels every other week until the skin is ready for a Facial with extractions, then alternate peels and facials.To treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.

Dry or sensitive

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ bioderma sebiun hydra + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Pevonia Sensitive Skin Cleansing Milk + Pevonia sensitive skin toner + A313  every other day for 2 week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily for 2 weeks

Combination or oily

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ bioderma sebiun global + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Pevonia Combination skin cleansing milk+ Pevonia combination toner + A313 every other day for 2 week, then daily for 3 weeks, then twice daily

 Back and chest

AM or PM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face Reality Mandelic cleanser follow with Ducray Ikeriane
Apply A313 every other night for two weeks, then twice a night

 

Third Grade of Acne: most typical. Mix of white heads & black heads 7-10 papules at one time

You want to gradually induce peeling and keep on peeling without irritating your skin.
You should be clearing within 8 to 12 weeks.

We will build a personalized home regimen, give us a call to schedule an online consultation.

Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly. To treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.
 

Dry or sensitive

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Mandelic Serum + Face reality Clear derma+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Face reality gentle cleanser +Face reality calming Toner +  Face reality Acne med 2.5% + Face reality Hydrabalance

Combination or oily

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Mandelic Serum + Face reality Hydra balance gel+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Face reality gentle cleanser +Face reality calming Toner +  Face reality Acne med 5% + Face Reality Hydrabalance

 Back and chest

AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face Reality Mandelic cleanser follow with Ducray Ikeriane
Apply Face reality Acne med 10% every other night for two weeks, then twice a night

 

Fourth Grade of Acne: cystic. Like III with nodules and painful cysts

You want to gradually induce peeling without irritating your skin.
You need to stop the infection.

It is very important to control inflammation as it results in pigmentation and scarring.

Ice the skin as it is the cheapest way to reduce inflammation
Benzoyl Peroxide Gel has a bleaching action so use white linens and towels.

Spa treatments: alternate Mandelic Peels and Facials with Extractions every other week, then monthly. To treat pigmentation and scarring dermabrasion + Cicabio healing cream or micro-needling can help.

Dry or sensitive

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Serum + Face reality Clear derma cream + Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Face reality gentle cleanser +Face reality calming toner +  Face reality Acne med 5%

Combination or oily

AM Bioderma Sebium Cleansing water+ Face reality Serum + Face reality Moisturizer+ Mineral sunscreen 3-4 times per day (BRUSHONBLOCK)
PM Face reality cleanser +Face reality Toner +  Face reality Acne med 2.5% + Face Reality Hydrabalance

 Back and chest

AM Do not take long showers and wash your back with a loofah or Face Reality Exfoliating Cleanser.
10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel daily for two weeks, then twice a day