As some of you, I love searching Tik Tok, Instagram or Facebook for the best skincare to bring back from France.
One of French pharmacy favorite is A313, unfortunately it is not what it used to be.
About 5 years ago the name was trademarked and a new packaging appeared on the market, that good because most French pharmacy products are not aligned with FDA labeling requirement.
But to my surprise the formula also changed, the retinol cream was now a retinyl palmitate cream.
Of course, if you were selling the original French version as I was, you were sent a cease and disease letter et Voila!
US customers now have a retinyl palmitate cream based on peanut oil
A little history:
A313 was the replacement of the original Avibon French retinol cream featured in The Goop' blog by Gwyneth Paltrow as France's skincare secret to flawless skin.
It contatined 1000 000 IU of pure vitamin A aka dosage is 0.33% of Retinol the highest in the market for real results.
As you can see on the packaging a warning sign for pregnant women was proof of it contained retinol (no warning is necessary for retinyl palmitate)
Understanding Vitamin A derivatives:
Because retinol is very unstable, esters such as retinyl palmitate are used but you add an extra step into the transformation and they are less effective.
Benefits of Vitamin A aka retinol:
- Retinol triggers epidermis turn over: dead cells, pigmented cells, milia are exfoliated as a result your skin is baby soft and lighter.
- Retinoids have an anti comedogenic effects:
- they regulate the process of shedding within sebaceous pores by pushing up and out the cells that clog your pores
- and decrease activity of enzymes participating in lipogenesis (less sebum in pores)
- Topically applied retinoids also influence the function of melanocytes, providing regular arrangement of melanin in the epidermis therefore reducing discoloration of the skin
- Retinol stimulates fibroblasts to synthesize collagen fibers (stimulates the activity of fibroblasts and increases their number), improves skin elasticity (removes degenerated elastin fibers)
- Retinol triggers skin renewal without the irritations and dryness experienced with the acid form of Vitamin A
So, what is the A313 are you purchasing in the USA doing for your skin?
Don't take me wrong, retinyl palmitate is good for the skin, nourishes and helps repair the skin barrier, does it have anti-aging or helps with acne?
In my opinion encapsulated retinol and retinal are better and more effective options!
-Helene
